Below is given a list of Most Beautiful Places in Christmas Island so, fasten your seat belt and enjoy the ride across Christmas Island.
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Louise Southerden admires Christmas Island's parade of wildlife. But one species seems to be missing — tourists.
Christmas Island is a curious place, even before you get there. The peak of an ancient volcano surrounded by a royal-blue sea, it feels far from mainland Australia - and it is. To reach this rocky speck 360 kilometres south of Java, you take an international flight across 2600 kilometres of Indian Ocean.
Then you arrive and see an Australian flag hanging limply on a pole at the island's neat, white airport terminal, hear Australian accents, use Australian currency and watch road trains barrelling across the island's interior.
Great migrations ... red crabs on their nocturnal march.
Great migrations ... red crabs on their nocturnal march.
Christmas Island is a Commonwealth territory like Norfolk Island. Still, contradictions abound, making it harder to get a sense of where you are.
The main street wouldn't look out of place in Vanuatu, with its concrete-block houses, warehouse-like supermarket and duty-free store. While snorkelling, we hear the Muslim call to worship from Kampong, the Malay neighbourhood of the island's main settlement (named, simply, Settlement). We have lunch on our first day at a restaurant, the Chinese Literary Association, sitting on a shady verandah, where we wait for our orders of tom yum soup, looking out at the shimmering sea. It could be a beachside suburb of Sydney until a local says: "We saw a whale shark off here a couple of days ago."
It's not every tropical island that has a mustard-yellow "cantilever" - a covered conveyor belt from a phosphate mine that's been operating on and off since the 1890s. It straddles the road at one end of town and continues unapologetically into Flying Fish Cove, where the steel legs of its loading dock stand in the aquamarine shallows amid coral heads and colourful fish.
Swimming with whale sharks.
Then there's the concrete jetty with its War of the Worlds-style gantry used for, among other things, launching barges to carry asylum seekers from boats to the shore.
Which brings us to the elephant in the room, the immigration detention centre. It's surprisingly out of sight, at the tail-end of this terrier-shaped island and an hour's drive from Settlement, which is near the terrier's ears. Even when you happen to drive past it, there's nothing to see but a beige gatehouse and a NO TRESPASSING sign, beyond which a dirt road leads down a hill to an inland sea of grey roofs.
It's also overshadowed by the island's natural attractions: a national park that takes up two-thirds of the island; whale sharks that cruise the deep ocean trenches offshore every summer; beaches - such as Lily, Ethel and Greta, named after the wives and daughters of early settlers - among the most beautiful in Australia; more than 80,000 seabirds, including red-footed boobies also found on the Galapagos Islands - one reason Christmas Island is sometimes called the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean. Then there's the annual spring-summer crab migration, when as many as 50 million red crabs scuttle out of the rainforest to the sea to spawn, an experience David Attenborough has called one of his 10 most memorable.
But there are plenty of crabs around at other times. When driving on main roads, we get used to calling "Crab!" and making sure we "Slow down, go around", as the signs say (crunching a crustacean is almost a sin).
Of the island's 20 land crab varieties, the show-stoppers are the orange and blue robber crabs. Called coconut crabs in the Pacific, "robbers" often steal - even big things such as spades. With bodies the size of basketballs, they can have leg spans of a metre and there are about a million of them, making this the world's largest population of the world's largest land crab.
Underwater is an amazing array of marine life. "I just saw the whole of the Great Barrier Reef in 100 metres," adventurer Sorrel Wilby says when we meet her after her dive off North West Point, a short boat ride from Settlement (she's here to launch her new Australian Geographic documentary about the island). Much of the island is largely untouched. Named on Christmas Day in 1643, it received its first-known human footprints in 1688 when crewmen of the British privateer Cygnet went ashore in search of fresh water. Its rugged interior was first explored by white settlers just 155 years ago, a blink in evolutionary time. Since then, 25 per cent of the island's 135 square kilometres has been cleared for mining and infrastructure, and only 1500 people live here.
There was a steady stream of about 2000 tourists a year, mostly naturalists and divers, until the detention centre opened in 2008, attracting a different kind of media attention. Tourism took another hit in December 2010 when a refugee boat came to grief on the island's rugged coast, killing at least 50 people and deeply affecting Christmas Islanders. Tour operators downsized or closed and tourist arrivals dropped.
The island was starting to pick itself up again earlier this year when record numbers of refugee arrivals ignited a political bonfire, temporarily stalling attempts to overcome perceptions that Christmas Island is "just a detention centre".
Things are looking up, however. The government's new border-protection policy to transfer asylum seekers to Nauru or Papua New Guinea is forcing the island community to refocus on tourism instead of detention, which has driven the economy for four years.
"It's important to remember that refugees have been coming to Christmas Island since the Vietnam War, with no detrimental effect on the actual experience of visiting," says the marketing manager for the Christmas Island Tourism Association, Linda Cash. "It's just the public perception of it as a tourist destination that has changed in recent years."
With the wet season approaching, traditionally a time when there are fewer asylum-seeker boats, Christmas Island is becoming more tourism-focused than ever. Virgin Australia has four flights a week from Perth, and Christmas Island Air, using Malaysia Airlines planes, flies weekly from Kuala Lumpur. The island has about 170 visitor beds in lodges, self-contained apartments, houses and the recently reopened Christmas Island Resort. There are plans for a new 35-bed eco-resort.
Parks Australia's latest 10-year management plan includes developing a multi-day walking track around the island and low-impact accommodation, perhaps even campsites, within the national park. Cruise ships such as P&O's Pacific Sun are visiting and expedition-style cruise companies are being encouraged to include the island in their itineraries.
There are bird, four-wheel-drive and jungle tours, fishing charters, a dive operator, a nine-hole golf course. The information centre is well stocked with souvenirs, maps, books and brochures on everything from the island's plants and crabs to its butterflies and bats.
There's just one thing missing: tourists. The only ones we see in five days are two detention centre workers on their days off, which makes us feel as though we have the island to ourselves.
This is do-it-yourself tourism at its best. We explore caves by the light of our head torches. We ride through rainforest in the back of a ute "trawling" for endangered goshawks with two visiting Tasmanian biologists (who offer this activity during an annual Bird'n'Nature Week in September). We go night swimming in a sea cave called the Grotto, using a rope to lower ourselves into its glittering, sand-bottomed pool.
On our last afternoon, we drive across the island, past the detention centre, which we had almost forgotten about, to the Dales - seven freshwater streams that flow through a Ramsar-listed wetland and a fairytale forest of Tahitian chestnut trees - where we cool off under a waterfall. Then we drive on to Martin Point, to watch the sun set in the sea. There's no one else around, just frigate birds and tropic birds wheeling overhead.
Going to Christmas Island is wonderfully surprising, like finding a forgotten treasure in a shoebox under your bed. It's a little dusty - the main street could do with a makeover and the cafes could open at regular times. But it will scrub up nicely when more travellers arrive, as they inevitably will, because this rocky speck is poised to take its place on Australia's ecotourism stage.
Christmas Island has many natural attractions that will suit visitors of all ages and levels of fitness. Here are just a sample of some of the beautiful places to visit on your Christmas Island adventure.
Flying Fish Cove
Adjacent to the port area and the main mooring sites, the Flying Fish Cove is located at the base of the Settlement area and is home to the Kampong (Malay for village) and the Mosque.
The Cove is suitable for both swimming and snorkelling, although it is advisable to wear reef shoes at all times to protect feet from sharp coral and stone fish.
It offers many great shore dives and has some of the best diversity and abundance of tropical fish anywhere.
The Cove also provides some of the most protected ocean swimming on the island.
There are picnic facilities, BBQ's (Halal and non-Halal), public toilets and showers. The island's main boat launching facility is also located here.
The "Cove" is also a great location to join the locals watching the sun setting and slow down to Christmas Island pace.
Tai Jin House
Located just up the hill beyond Flying Fish Cove, this is the original home of the Administrator of the Island - affectionately known locally as "Buck House".The expansive gardens are used for community events and provide excellent views overlooking Flying Fish Cove.
A little way past Tai Jin House is the naval installed 1941 gun and buildings that were used to defend the Cove during the second World War.
The Grotto
Approximately five minutes drive from Settlement located just before the golf course. A subterranean cave with mix of sea and fresh water pool that is refreshing on hot days or a romantic spot with candles at night. The wave motion through narrow openings provides interesting sound effects.
Margaret Knoll
Located approximately 20 minutes drive from Settlement on the plateau beyond the airport.
There are great views along the east coast of the island from the look out where you can watch the Frigatebirds and tropicbirds gliding through the air or Brown Boobies.
Also good for seeing fruit bats (flying foxes) at dusk.
The Dales
On the west coast and one of the few areas on the island having permanent flowing water and permanent wet areas. Permanent water provides a habitat for Blue crabs and there are populations readily observable.
There are two marked trails one leading to Hugh Waterfall and the other to Anderson's Dale where access maybe made to the shoreline.
Hugh's Dale Waterfall
A medium walk (some uphill) with a boardwalk for most of the way, with interpretive signage offering information on the flora and fauna of the Island. It is well worth it to be greeted by the cool waters of Hugh's waterfall at the end.
Martin Point
Approximately 30 minutes drive from Settlement, Martin Point is reached by a short walk from the carpark at the end of the track.
A viewing platform on the edge of the Seacliff provides opportunity to photograph and view the extend on the western coast. A popular site to watch the sun set over the coast and waves breaking over the fringing reef and shore platforms.
There is a lookout with a picnic table on site. Robber Crabs are attracted by the smell of food and come out to investigate but don't worry they will not bite.
Blowholes
Approximately 45 minutes drive from Settlement, located on the western side of the island. A spectacular display of nature - the Blowholes are a series of rock formations that hiss and spurt water when it is forced through from the ocean swell. There is a viewing platform for your safety, but be prepared to get wet!
South Point
Approximately 30 minute drive along straight mine haulage roads, South Point is the site of the major early settlement at the peak of the phosphate mining days. Little evidence remains of this, except for two Chinese temples and an abandoned, overgrown railway station. The larger temple has impressive ocean views and is the focus of annual firewalking ceremonies, pictured on the walls.
Territory Day Park
An excellent picnic spot, with BBQ and playground equipment. The Nursery lookout, located in the park, is a great place from which to view Flying Fish Cove, the Kampong and Settlement and to watch shipping operations in the port below. It is also an excellent site to watch seabirds flying past on air currents. A Nature Trail offers the opportunity to explore and learn about the unique Christmas Island rainforest. This short circuit walk has signs to inform you about the rainforest environment and joins a longer trail down to Smith Point. Parks Australia's nursery, where plants for the Rainforest Rehabilitation Program are grown, is situated adjacent to the Park. Call at the Visitor's Centre to purchase a nature trail booklet for $3.00 and enjoy an informative look at the fauna of the rainforest.
The Pink House
The Pink House is an Education and Research Station located in the middle of the plateau rainforest. It serves as a base for scientific research and education programs. The building was at one time housing for railway workers during the period the South Point railway was in operation. There is a Nature Trial with interpretive signs and plantings of island plant species.
LB4 Lookout
A panoramic view over the north coast towards Settlement from an on-site gazebo. Surrounded by recent planting's in the Rainforest Rehabilitation Program. Abbott's Boobies may be sighted flying to and from nearby nest sites.
Territory Day Park Nature Trail
The Nature Trail at the Territory Day Park offers visitors the opportunity to explore and learn about the unique Christmas Island rainforest. Parks Australia's nursery, where plants for the Christmas Island Minesite to Forest Rehabilitation Program are propagated, is situated adjacent to the Territory Day Park.
There are excellent picnic, BBQ and playground facilities, and the Nursery Lookout offers great views over Flying Fish Cove, the Kampong and Settlement and for watching boating operations in the port.
Greta Beach
A short walk and staircase down the cliff from the carpark leads to Greta Beach. Turtles nest all year round on this beach and flotsam and jetsam is washed ashore during the dry season. High numbers of red crabs spawn at this beach. Please do not disturb the fauna and their nests.
Dolly Beach Boardwalk
A leisurely walk, mostly on a boardwalk, through coastal terrace forest from the carpark leads to Dolly Beach. It is an isolated and picturesque sandy beach with a coral reef. A freshwater stream runs from above the beach. Robber crabs inhabit the beach area. Turtles nest at this beach all year round. Camping is permitted with a permit. Please do not disturb the fauna and their nests.
West White Beach Walking Trail
This 50 minute one-way marked trail meanders down through plateau and terrace forest. It is a moderately difficult walk with a short cliff descent using rope towards the end. Walkers are advised to wear sturdy footwear and to carry adequate drinking water. There is a stunning coral reef off the shore from the beach.
Winifred Beach Walking Trail
This marked walking trail leads from the carpark down to the beach via a staircase down the cliff face. Arrange to go at low tide (information available from the Visitor's Centre or Harbourmaster) as visitors have to wade a short distance through water to reach the actual beach. Be cautious as it is possible to become stranded on the beach or caught in a rip because of rising tides and changing sea conditions. Winifred Beach is a popular swimming and snorkelling spot in good sea conditions. Seabirds, including Brown Boobies and White-tailed Tropicbirds nest in the area.
Smith Point Nature Trail
The Smith Point walk that takes you up to National Day Park is a challenging walk up the cliff face. The walk starts behind the gun up at Tai Jin House and continues up through the rainforest and joins the walk at territory day park. You may even meet some brown boobies up along the way or even see some frigate birds nesting from the viewing platform when you reach the end.
Drumsite–Poon Saan Heritage Trail
The Drumsite – Poon Saan Heritage Trail has 20 stops from Murray Rd Railway Station, Drumsite to the old Technical School at Poon Saan and interpretive signs mark each site. Guides with detailed information on the trail are available for purchase at the Visitor's Centre for $3.00.
Settlement Heritage Trail
The Settlement Heritage Trail has 20 stops from Tai Jin House to the Island Cemeteries. Interpretive signs mark each site. Guides with detailed information on the trail are available for purchase at the Visitor's Centre for $3.00.
Golf Course Lookout
Drive to the T junction at the top of Phosphate Hill Road and turn left, continue to mine site and turn left again and the Telstra tower is visible on the left. Follow mining tracks towards mast for approximately 500 metres. There is a clearing but it is sometimes overgrown and hard to find. Through the scrub you will come to a Telstra shed and there is an old Japanese headstone nearby. Go beyond that and you will reach a fork in the track; to the right is the golf course lookout and to the left are the remains of a coolies grave site.
Tours
Tours can help tourists experience the wonders of Christmas Island. With a Christmas Island tour you can stand under Hugh's Dale Waterfall, see the magnificent views from Margaret Knoll or watch the Blowholes as they constantly amaze. To find out more about Guided Tours of Christmas Island click here.
Car Rental
There are several car rental companies where you can hire a 4WD to enable you to take a self-guided tour of the island at your own pace. It is highly recommended pre-booking a vehicle prior to your arrival, due to the limited number of rental vehicles available. Contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association for further details.
http://www.smh.com.au/travel/other-side-of-an-island-20121018-27smc.html
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